PM’s Pantry

PM thoughtfully provides a list of Chinese condiments and spices to get us acquainted with the Chinese pantry. My comments in italics. I’ll star the ones I think are most necessary to have on hand; the more stars the more important.

*** soy sauce 醬油 jiang4yiou2: Made from fermented soy beans. Comes in light, medium, and dark colors, but there is no difference in their flavor. I think they differ mostly in consistency—dark soy sauce is much thicker than medium. Usually light soy sauce is used for some stir fried dishes and salads. Dark soy sauce is used for stewing and sauteed dishes. Medium soy sauce is used for most dishes. Japanese soy sauce (Kikkoman) is a medium soy sauce. Unless otherwise indicated, recipes on this site use medium soy sauce. Since I don’t have any light, I’ve been substituting medium whenever PM calls for light…this may change if I decide to splurge for a third variety of soy sauce.

** vinegar 醋 cu4: American cider vinegar is stronger and more pungent than Chinese rice vinegar, the mild brown kind. White Chinese vinegar is brewed from chemicals and is stronger than brown. When 1 Tb brown vinegar is called for, substitute 2/3 Tb cider vinegar or 1 Tb red wine vinegar. White Chinese vinegar is equal in strength to white cider vinegar. Not sure what PM’s talking about with all these complicated fractions and stuff, but when I say rice vinegar I mean white rice vinegar, and when I say brown vinegar I mean Chinese brown vinegar (Chinkiang vinegar, though Chinese black vinegar is ok too).

*** wine 酒 jiou3: Chinese Shaoxing works well if it’s available. If not, dry sherry (not cooking sherry) or sauterne is a good substitute. I love the smell of Shaoxing in the morning.

*** oil 食油 shi2yiou2: Since so many Chinese dishes are deep fried or stir fried, the cooking oil is very important. Peanut or salad oil (hello, canola?) is least likely to impart flavors to foods. Occasionally lard, chicken fat, or other oils may be called for because of the special flavor or quality they add. Oil used for deep frying may be used again and again. Add a few pieces of ginger root or green onion to remove odors from used oil.

** cornstarch 太白粉 tai4bai2fen3: Potato, tapioca, corn, water chestnuts, lotus root, or other vegetable starch used as a thickening agent in cooking.

cornstarch paste 溼太白粉 shi1tai4bai2fen3: Equal amounts of cornstarch and cold water, dissolved.

*** salt 鹽 yen2: Taiwan table salt is finer and not as salty as American salt. I’m not sure if that’s even true anymore in this day and age…what I’ve done is halve (at least) the amount of salt PM calls for in her recipes when I post them here. Otherwise the amount of salt she uses is completely insane!

** sesame oil 麻油 ma2yiou2: An important condiment in Chinese cooking. This fragrant oil is derived from white sesame seeds. The flavor is strong enough that only a few drops are required for most recipes. It is usually added last. Resist temptation to add too much.

** hot bean paste 辣豆瓣醬 la4dou4ban4jiang4: Made from red hot peppers, flour, soybeans, salt, and other condiments. The redder it is, the hotter it is (PM uses a really really red kind, must be level 11 hotness). Tabasco sauce may be substituted. Chili sauce might also work.

* soup stock 清湯 qing1tang1: Chinese soups are delicate in flavor, therefore when soup stock is called for in a recipe, it must always be chicken stock (pork is also acceptable). Beef broth is too strong. PM doesn’t provide a recipe for making Chinese stock, so here’s a recipe from Wei Chuan: (1) parboil pork, beef, chicken, or bones. (2) remove and wash wok. (3) bring new clean water to boil, add meat or bones along with scallions, ginger, and cooking wine. Simmer over low heat until the soup is tasty. I generally use whatever chicken stock I have on hand, doesn’t have to have been simmered with these Chinese flavors. If the recipe is already heavily flavored, I often just use water.

MSG 味精 wei4jing1: A vegetable protein salt that enhances the flavor of food. It should be used sparingly so as not to cover up the subtle flavors of food. MSG has really fallen out of favor since its heyday in the mid-20th century. PM uses it, sometimes, but not most of the time. I read a nice article about MSG a while ago; I think it’s up to you whether you want to use it or not.

*** ginger root 薑 jiang1: One of the most important spices in Chinese cooking. Whole fresh ginger imparts a delightful flavor and aroma to food and removes bad odors and flavors from food. The root should be stored in a cool, dry place. Powdered ginger is not a good substitute. No kidding. I keep ginger in the fridge, in the butter compartment. Starts to wither and shrivel after a couple weeks, so I don’t buy in bulk.

*** scallion 蔥 cung1: Also called green onion. A must in Chinese cooking. In Taiwan there are big scallions (about one inch in diameter and more than two feet long) and small scallions (about the size of a chopstick). Usually when stir frying, stewing, or soaking in an ingredient, scallions are used. They’re everywhere. Scallions that are more than a week old get a little slimy and gross; would recommend using only in a pinch (or if poor) and thoroughly cleaned and trimmed.

*** garlic 蒜 suan4: PM puts garlic in her “special ingredients” section, but I think it belongs here with its good friends ginger and scallion. LOVE smashing garlic with the side of my cleaver.

* star anise 八角 ba1jiao3: The whole anise is an eight-pointed star-shaped ingredient containing licorice-flavored seeds in each of the eight petals. It is often crushed, broken, or used whole in Chinese dishes.

** brown peppercorn (Szechuan peppercorn) 花椒 hua1jiao1: Used in stewed and braised dishes. In many Szechuan and Hunan dishes, it is used as a powder. It is a deep red color. The outside is crushed a little. Inside is a black seed. It has a very special smell all of its own. PM, you are reaching Hemingway-esque levels of eloquence in this description. Seriously, though, these peppercorns are strong. Do not mess with them.

peppersalt 花椒鹽 hua1jiao1yen2: A spice served alongside all deep fried dishes. It is made by heating whole brown peppercorns in a hot wok until browned, about a minute, then crushing them with a mortal and pestle and mixing one part crushed pepper with two parts salt.

* five-spice powder 五香粉 wu3xiang1fen3: A blended spice usually containing anise seed, fennel, clove, cinnamon bark, and brown peppercorn, though some types actually contain up to fourteen spices. Some cooks blend their own, but good varieties are available on the market. A blender can be used to mix this powder. Often appears in recipes for stews.

** bean curd (tofu) 豆腐 dou4fu3: A solidified form of soybean milk, high in protein and very versatile. It is an important staple in the Chinese diet and is available in many forms: fresh, pressed, string shape, sheet shape, dried, soaked and spiced, etc. There is no real substitute.

dried bean curd sheets / skin 豆腐衣 dou4fu3yi1: A half circle shape, very dry and paper thin, will keep in plastic package for 2 to 3 months. Egg roll sheets will substitute.

* bean sprouts 豆芽 dou4ya2: The sprouts of mung or soy beans. Canned bean sprouts are a poor substitute for fresh, because they are not very nourishing or flavorful. To sprout mung beans at home, wash them and cover with water overnight or for several hours. Drain and rinse in cold water, cover with a wet cloth. Keep the sprouts wet for three or four days, rinsing and draining them three times a day. When the sprout is about an inch and a half long, use or refrigerate until being used. Store-bought bean sprouts tend to keep for one or two days before rotting.

** bean pastes 甜麵醬 tian2mien4jiang4 / 豆瓣醬 dou4ban4jiang4: Thick brown pastes, prepared from soy bean flour and flavorings. Sweet types have sugar added and resemble pureed dates. PM generally uses two kinds: soy bean paste, which is salty, and sweet bean paste, which has a, well, sweeter flavor. Sweet bean paste and red bean paste are not the same!

sweet red bean paste 紅豆沙 hung2dou4sha1: Made from red (adzuki) beans. Almost all Chinese desserts use this for the filling. Mash the cooked red beans in a strainer. The paste will come out, leaving the skin. Stir fry the paste with sugar and oil. After cooling, it can be used. You may buy canned bean paste. Why thank you, PM, for the permission! I’ve never made my own; the canned kind has always worked well for me.

* wood ear fungus 黑木耳 hei4mu4er3: Sold in a dry form and must be soaked before being used. 15 minutes in cold water should do it. Must say, though, that I’ve also seen it sold fresh in the Chinese supermarket.

*** dried black mushrooms 香菇 xiang1gu1: Adds color, texture, and delicious flavor to Chinese dishes. Like other dried mushrooms, they must be soaked in warm water before being used. They’ll keep for a long, long time in a cool dry place. I swear my mother has a bag that’s been around since my infancy. Soak them in warm water; they’ll take anywhere from 30 minutes to a few hours to soften fully, and the mushroom soaking liquid is often reserved for use elsewhere in the recipe.

straw mushrooms 草菇 cao3gu1: Light delicate mushrooms grown in Taiwan and available in cans. The flavor resembles that if button mushrooms.

** dried shrimp 蝦米 xia1mi3: Small dried varieties of shrimp with a very delicious taste. Usually dried shrimp must be soaked and chopped before being used. Five minutes in cold water. Discard extra liquid.

* Chinese ham 火腿 huo3tuei3: Chinese ham has an excellent flavor and is often used as a garnish as well as a main course. Substitute Smithfield or Virginia ham. Italian prosciutto may be used as a garnish. Really, PM? I love prosciutto but will reserve judgment on the last one.

water chestnuts 荸薺 bi2qi2: Small vegetables grown in flooded fields. They add a crunchy texture to food and are juicy and delicious to eat alone or in combination with many other foods. Canned varieties are readily available. I’ve seen these fresh at the supermarket but honestly would have no idea how to use them.

* bamboo shoots 筍 suen3: There are many different kinds of fresh bamboo shoots in every season. After buying, peel the skin and cook until done (I simmer them 30 mins). Soak in cold water if you don’t want to use all at the same time. The big ones are tougher than the smaller. If you use canned bamboo shoots, they do not need to be cooked. I find canned bamboo to have a funny taste and use it only in cases of extreme duress or laziness.

** cellophane noodles (bean vermicelli) 粉絲 fen3si1: Also called bean threads and vermicelli transparent noodle bean threads. Made of mung bean starch. Usually used in soup; also cooked with vegetables. Also deep fried and placed on the bottom of assorted meat dishes. Love ‘em. Soak for 10 mins in hot water or 30 mins in cold water before using.

dried hot red pepper 乾紅辣椒 gan1hung2la4jiao1: The big kind.

** fermented black beans 豆豉 dou4shi3: Salty. Use sparingly and always wash before adding to anything.

* sesame paste 芝麻醬 zhi1ma2jiang4: Made from ground white sesame seeds; strong flavor and reminiscent of peanut butter (real peanut butter, that is).